Yesterday was the “I want my mommy” day of this tour. It ranks as one of the of the ten worst days I’ve ever spent on a bike.
Today was the “Who’s your daddy?” day. the last 20 miles are among the best I’ve ever ridden.
I slept in two to three hour spurts. Mindful of comments about my diet being rather inadequate to the task at hand, I had bacon and eggs with coffee for hotel breakfast.
Last night in a search to purge weight from my bags I found four BelVita packs and four apples. I decided not to grab food for the road from the hotel. Time to consume the consumables.
Before leaving I cleaned and lubed my chain and put a drop of lube on various places on my cables and derailers. Ready to roll.
I coasted downhill for a stop at WalMart then rejoined the route in downtown Whytheville. I didn’t feel very good but decided to continue anyway. On top of the brutal hills, I’ve been dealing with pollen issues for several days. Having sinuses filled with gunk makes me drowsy.
The route took me southwest on Lee Highway, US 11, the old main route through the Shenandoah Valley. Traffic was light and drivers gave me plenty of space. More importantly, the grade of the road was gentle, rarely exceeding 2 or 3 percent, despite what my map’s elevation profile said.
I seemed to be getting stronger by the mile. A light headwind didn’t seem to be slowing me. I came to Rural Retreat and stopped at an Amish-run bakery and coffee shop for second breakfast.
As luck would have it, today is National Doughnut Day. I bought a cup of coffee and was treated to a huge glazed doughnut. So much for my dietary improvements.
About a quarter mile later, I went into a grocery store and bought dinner, a big turkey and egg salad. My planned destination was a church hostel in Troutdale. There is no food there or in town so it’s BYOS.
According to the elevation profile, I had climbed about 200 feet to 2,500 feet.
I was now headed south toward Cedar Springs and Sugar Grove. Gradually I was gaining more elevation but I really didn’t notice. The wind was no longer on my face and I was locked in. I call it The Trance.
I was buzzing along on this two-lane country road, admiring the scenery and chatting with the cows and goats and horses grazing near the roadside. I look up and there are two cars coming toward me in the other lane. A third car starts to pass them in my lane!
The driver was an old lady with a permanent, white hair stacked up on her head like a helmet. She was taking her time. Coming right at me. No worries. I pulled off the road onto a mowed lawn. Old lady never blinked an eye as she drove by.
At Sugar Grove I started the six-mile climb through the Mount Rogers Recreation Area to Troutdale. The ride wound through a beautiful forest. The grade was gradual. I just kept buzzing along. A raging creek and wild pink flowering bushes running along the road. My legs never tired. I stopped at the top for a snack then flew down the two-miles to Troutdale. Big fun.
I arrived in Troutdale at 1:15. I’d ridden 38 miles, the weather couldn’t have been better, and my mind and body were ready for more. What a contrast to yesterday.
I was at about 3,500 feet before the descent to 3,000 at Troutdale. I decided to ride 23 miles to Damascus. More gradual climbing to 3,700 feet then a couple more short climbs. None of the climbs bothered me in the least. I was cookin’ with gas. And the scenery was perfecto.
I had the option to ride the Virginia Creeper Trail for the last 13 miles into Damascus. I didn’t bother. The road was a total blast, gently winding this way and that down to Damascus at 2,000 feet.
I’m staying at The Place, the first hostel to cater to hikers on the Appalachian Trail. It has been welcoming TransAm cyclists since Bikecentennial in 1976.
I am two miles from Tennessee. I’ll save that state for a Natchez Trace ride in 2025.
Tomorrow is a short ride to a church hostel in Rosedale. The midway climb over Hayter’s Gap is 1,500 steep feet. These boots are made for walkin’.
I’ve booked a room at the lodge at The Breaks Interstate Park on the Kentucky border for Sunday.
Thanks to all the readers who bolstered my spirits after yesterday.
Miles today: 59
Tour miles: 668.5
A Few Spokes Shy of a Wheel 
Whoohooo!!! Proud of you for sticking to bacon and eggs at breakfast. High fat/protein always works wonders for my energy. High refined carb tanks me. The donut was a deserved treat. Like eating your dinner before you get dessert.
I’m stoked today felt better, I think I’m going to adapt the “don’t quit on a bad day” mantra myself.
So glad today went better! I bet sleeping helped everything too.
What a turnaround 💪👌 The restorative power of bacon and coffee 🤣 As we say here now “keep ‘er lit” 👍
Corey and I stopped at the Amish place for lunch. I don’t remember what Corey had, but he left me in the dust on the way to Troutdale. He had his afterburners on. At the church hostel in Troutdale, we met 2 koreans who fed us a feast. I called a friend because I was seriously considering abandoning, but he talked me through it (which got me through another 4 weeks or so).
It’s super discouraging dealing with all these climbs and headwinds.
So, an absolutely perfect and amazing day including seeing the head-on car but escaping it!