Today was a day filled with surprises. Most of them good.
For starters the hotel’s light breakfast included large bowls and Cheerios. Coffee, OJ, two bowls of Cherrios, a couple of small donut sticks, and two granola bars for the road. Burp.
I bought some more water at the Dollar General in town then hit the rail trail out of town.
About 13 miles later I switched back over to the C&O Canal towpath. I was pleased to see it was in pretty good shape, a condition that would last only for another ten miles or so. Then the towpath became muddy again. Ugh.
After 30 miles I arrived at Williamsport where I expected to have an early lunch at the Desert Rose Cafe, but the Google informed me that it was permanently closed. It’s been a go-to spot for canal riders for ages. In 2015, we ordered sandwiches to go. When we unwrapped them we saw encouraging notes written on our napkins. Very thoughtful. So that was today’s disappointment.
I suppose it didn’t much matter since the only way to get directly into Wlliamsport from the canal involves walking up and down stairs on either side of a footbridge over the canal. (There’s a small rail to quote your wheels but it’s unusable with panniers.)
About ten miles from Williamsport a miracle happened. The towpath surface became nearly perfect. For the rest of the day. My speed popped up about three miles per hour and I could finally enjoy the scenery. The canal is really beautiful when your eyes aren’t focused on dodging puddles.
I had some munchies in my handlebar bag and I made it a point to nibble on something every ten miles. One apple, some crackers with cheese, the granola bars. I was churning through calories faster than I could replace them. At about 54 miles I left the canal and crossed the Potomac to get some real food in Shepherdstown, West Virginia. (My ninth state of this trip.)
I was cruising downtown in search of the Blue Moon Cafe when I heard someone call my name. There, standing on the sidewalk was Kevin Wurster, a repeat member of the Rootchopper 50 States and Cider Ride posses. Kevin went to Shepherdstown University and was in town visiting friends over the 4th of July.
We had a long talk on the street, then he joined me later at the Blue Moon. I had a chicken cheese steak sandwich that was outstanding. The chocolate chip cookie I had for dessert was also darned good. Not good enough for me to grab a dish of ice cream a few blocks away as Kevin and I continued out serendipitous get together.
Now fully stuffed I bid Kevin goodbye and I headed back to the towpath, headed for Brunswick and yet another new Holiday Inn Express. I intend to lay waste to the breakfast bar in the morning.
The section of the towpath near Harpers Ferry is beautiful. It’s completely shaded. The river is full of rapids making a calming sound that lasts for about five miles. The gaps in the mountains make for dramatic scenery.
Before hitting the hay, I went over to Sheetz next door and bought two big bottles of Gatorade and some snacks. I have been having leg cramps for about a week so I decided to drown my muscles in water and panther piss.
Tomorrow I head for home. It’ll be another 70+ mile day.
Miles today: 76.5
Tour miles: 2,579.5
A Few Spokes Shy of a Wheel 
Wow, what a day, and so cool you ran into your friend! 🙂 You are really chugging along!! Huge mileage days! Glad you’ll be home by today! I’m working from home, so I’m not able to celebrate your arrival with ice cream…so a hearty Welcome Back will have to suffice. 🙂 What a grand trip that was and I enjoyed reading all about it each day! 🙂
I’ve done that section of the trail twice and found Shepherdstown to be a sweet blue oasis in a sea of red. I didn’t know about the Blue Moon café, I always go to the Sweet Shop on W German St. There is road you can take to cross into Williamsport to avoid climbing the stairs. Almost home!
I took that road in 2005when I was headed west to Indiana. I thought Williamsport was really sketchy. Then in 2018 I used the entrance at the Cushwa Basin Coal building (I don’t recall the stairs were needed) and discovered the little downtown.
Shepherdstown is chock full of interesting restaurants. Seems like a cool place to me
With the hat and the neck kerchief you look like the 2023 version of Festus.
Thank yew Matthew
These scenes are my favorite of the entire journey so far. I would LOVE to bike there. How wonderful to run into your friend! What a small world. I cannot believe you are almost home.