Another perfect day on the road. Temps in the 60s, low humidity, sunny skies.
After laying waste to the hotel breakfast, I headed into downtown Charlottesville and re-joined the TransAm.
The route went west toward the Blue Ridge on picture postcard country roads. There were plenty of climbs as the route toyed with the eastern side of the ridge.
I was warned that there is no food at today’s destination in Afton, so I stocked up at a country store in White Hall. At noon I diverted to Crozet where i had a burger and fries. The large fries could have fed four people. I surrendered half way through the pile.
More hills and a rather dramatic uphill switchback came next. After I crossed I-64 the ride up the ridge began. It was tough. I had to stop twice to get my heart rate under control. The second time I was on a steep section so I pushed my bike 100 yards to a flat spot. A half mile later I was at the Cookie Lady’s house in Afton.
June Curry saw some bike tourists slogging Afton Mountain Road past her house on a hot summer day in 1976 and offered them water. Day after day the Bikecentennial riders came by. Eventually she caught on and started giving out cookies. She died about 12 years ago but her house is now a bike hostel of sorts. Actually it’s more like a shrine to the TransAm.
I’m here with Greg Parker, an eastbound TransAm rider. He hooked me up with a Warmshowers host for tomorrow and warned me of the vicious dogs in Eastern Kentucky.
A family of three is just arriving to fill out the rest of the rooms tonight.
The house is directly across the road from the Blue Ridge Tunnel, so I went for a three-mile hike to check it out. It’s not particularly bike friendly but it’s so cool inside that it feels like a shower on a hot day.
Tomorrow I climb up to the Blue Ridge Parkway. It’s sure to be challenging but I get a legendary descent on the far side.
Miles today: 31.5
Tour miles: 398.5
A Few Spokes Shy of a Wheel 
I got to meet June Curry and stay at her house overnight when I was on my first cross-country bike attempt. 🙂 Who is running her hostel now? Someone in her family? Her bike house is like a museum with all the postcards, etc on the wall! 🙂
The folks who live next door
ok, good! 🙂 glad it lives on!
Sounds like a wonderful time. And a three mile hike and your back tolerates it? I went to my oncologist a couple weeks ago. He can hardly walk. Needs a laminectomy and now needs an ankle fusion. He rides a stationary bike but has been in misery for like two years but won’t get surgery.
I used my cane. I walked fast with a forward lean. I’m pretty stiff.
Sighhh. This has me craving some kind of multi-day/week adventure. These views really DO get better.