I’m sitting in my tent listening to waves wash up on the little beach just below my tent site on the Mississippi River in Lake City. Finally! Hawks and eagles are flying around searching for dinner.
There is a near zero chance of rain tonight so no rain fly for me. I expect I’ll be drenched by 2 am.
Last night I got the senior’s special at the family restaurant next to the hotel: spaghetti with alleged vegetables on the side.
The Settle Inn turned out to be a very nice hotel. The complimentary breakfast had proper china and silverware. I had my usual double dose of food.
Off and running under overcast skies with cool temperatures, I found the Great River Trail and followed it north next to an active rail line along the river. It was mostly unpaved but it had withstood the recent rains rather well. (The surface was almost as good as the GAP trail in Pennsylvania,)
An interesting feature of Wisconsin trails is that you have to pay a user fee – $5 for the day, $20 for a year.
It was worth it. The trail was shaded and afforded so many different views. Trains, bluffs along both sides of the river, swamps, trestles, even an Indian mound.
In the winter it is used by snowmobilers because Wisconsin.
I didn’t see anyone for ten miles then I saw some riders with event numbers on their shirts. Soon after a black van pulled along side me. It was a local bike shop doing support for the event. The woman and man and I talked for a while. She gave me some energy food things that tasted like marguerita mix. Trail angels show up when you least expect them.
Such nice people. They even took my picture to prove that I am not making this up from a bar in La Crosse.
I managed to get lost soon after this but The Google and a compass set me right. I road a few more miles on the road turning down a chance for Food and Booze! (Wisco people aren’t very subtle.)
I re-crossed the river at Winona Minnesota.
After a delicious burrito at the Winona Sandwich Shop, I headed north on highway 61. Yes, it’s the same one made famous by the Bob Dylan song only he was singing about the southern part in the Mississippi delta.
For about 20 miles I had a tailwind and a perfectly paved 12 foot shoulder. The Mule took off, cruising along at 16 miles per hour . Wheee!
For a brief period I diverted from this four lane highway to a quieter country road near Kellogg. They warned of jaywalking turtles.
About an hour later I was wondering if my destination got the night existed. Lake City is on a section of the river called Lake Pepin. The town once was a world leader in the manufacture of pearl buttons. And claims to be where water skiing was invented.
For me it held good and a campsite along the river.
I was pretty tired. Fortunately a nearby camper named Brad came over and helped me set my tent up. (The elastic cords inside my tent poles are stretched. Anybody know how to deal with this?)
And so the sun sets on another long day in the saddle. 90.5 miles.
My total mileage so far is 1,498.
Tomorrow I go to Saint Paul.
6 thoughts on “Any Road Tour: Day 20 – Trails and tailwinds to the banks of the Mississippi River”
Such good memories…. turtle crossings, snow mobile trails, trails by rails, user fees. Enjoy the Twin Cities and their amazing bicycle infrastructure.
I love the Great River Trail and refuge area. Looks like a great trip – Thank you!
That Wisconsin trail looks cool, Lake Pepin MN has a British style 3 speed bike tour every year, I think it happened last month. Lots of tweed clad riders and Sturmey Archer hubs. Your recent note on the Mule hitting 47,000 miles (and counting) made me wonder, how much of the Mule is still original aside from the Frame and Fork? Congrats on churning out another 90 mile day and day 20 to boot!
Frame, fork, seat post, rear rack and maybe the front derailer are original.
It’s so fun following you, John. I have some pictures I would like to send you when you were in Treampealeau. Can you tell me how get them to you?
You can email them to me at rootchopper at gmail dot com. Thanks. Great meeting you.