The Mo Mo Tour: Day 15: Elk Garden to Breaks Interstate Park

Lights went out at 9 last night. Before turning in I raided the fridge for a small frozen Salisbury steak dinner. This was after I ate a bowl of beef soup and downed an Italian sub. Gimme protein or gimme death.

In the morning, after eating some prefab oatmeal, I hit the road, headed north to Honaker on rolling roads.

I saw some trash along the roadside after Rosedale. I counted five syringes. I’m in Demon Copperhead country where the despairs of daily life are eased by a shot of death.

In Honaker, I stopped at a GSCS for second breakfast: a bacon, egg, and cheese biscuit, a day old banana, and some chocolate milk. It was a good thing too because I had the lame idea that today would be flat-ish until the finish.

After Honaker, I encountered a 1,000-foot crusher of a hill. No worries. I biked what I could and walked the steep part in the middle. Peter from LA caught and passed me. After the hill I enjoyed a fun downhill, followed by a good 16 miles of relative flat roads.

I saw a fairly large ranch house down the hill to the left of the road. Two boxers sensed my approach and started barking. Then they started running. No way they going to run up a 100-foot hill on a 1,000-foot driveway.

Way.

They came after me barking up a storm, one on each side. I tried to use my air horn but had trouble getting it to work. The alpha dog was at my left, a foot from my pedal. The beta dog was just off my right rear pannier. I sped up and started yelling maniacally like Fay Wray.

Alpha dog backed off momentarily, then came after me again. I swerved at him trying to hit him with my front left pannier while accelerating up a mild grade.

Thankfully the dogs lost interest after the longest 30 seconds of my life. I don’t think that they would have bit me, but you never know.

I resolved to stay more vigilant in the future. I’m also going to put some stones in the concave dent in the top of my handlebar bag.

In Davenport I stopped at a grocery store. There was Peter having a nosh and having his ear bent by a local man. As soon as he was finished with his sandwich, he took off. Cant blame him. I followed with neither the intention nor the physical capability of catching him. He’s way too fast.

Ahead await today’s main event: three short, steep hills in rapid succession.

Hill number 1 was just outside Haysi. It was well over 10 percent in spots. I rode about 3/4ths of it, pushing The Mule for the rest. After an entertaining descent came hill number 2. I climbed it without stopping. Dang. Hill number 3 put the hurt in me. I walked the steep bits.

This county is where Ralph Stanley, bluegrass legend, lived

I was expecting the entrance to Breaks Interstate Park to be a few miles beyond the summit but it was to my left just at the peak, a couple of miles early. Happy face. The road to the lodge where I am staying was laughably steep. I hoofed it.

I arrived at 1. My room wasn’t ready so I had me some all-you-can eat Sunday buffet. One man with an enormous belly demonstrated amazing skill at balancing fried chicken on a plate. His gluttony kind of turned me off so I had pot roast instead. And green beans. And a roll with butter, and a big salad on a separate plate. There was fruit salad and ice cream for desert. So good!

After lunch my room was ready. It’s huge. It has a balcony in the trees. It has a hot shower, my first since Whytheville. Life is good.

Tomorrow will be brutal. With no places to stay, I have to ride 70 miles to Hindman. Five climbs. Easily the most challenging day yet.

Miles today: 43.5

Tour miles: 746.5

The Mo Mo Tour: Day 14 – Damascus to Elk Garden

The hostel was quite cold last night. And my knees were aching from yesterday’s hill fest. I didn’t sleep well.

At 8 I walked the block to the Damascus Diner where I ate dinner last night. I ordered “The Hogg” and I felt like one after eating it.

Before leaving town I stopped at a bike shop to use their floor pump. Next I headed along rolling country roads to Meadowview. It was a net gain of 100 feet of elevation over 15 miles.

The next 5.7 miles are a descent of about 500 feet to the town of Hayters (rhymes with highters) Gap.

Shortly after the town came the 3-mile, wooded climb to the eponymous gap at 3,000 feet. Fortunately, no trucks are allowed on this road so it is relatively safe despite numerous switchbacks.

I made the first mile without much difficulty. I could tell the grade was increasing with each switchback. I decided to climb 1/3rd to 1/2 mile then rest. This worked well for a mile. I stopped to rest and put both feet on the ground. When I went to start pedaling again, I couldn’t get enough momentum to keep from toppling over.

So I started walking. I soon discovered that pedaling bike up a grade at 3.2 mph is much harder than pushing it bike up at 2.9 mph. So I walked the last mile to the top.

The descent was equally steep, so much so that I stopped twice to let my rims cool.

I stopped for the day at a United Methodist Church bike hostel at Elk Garden, 33.5 miles for the day.

I’m accompanied by Peter from Los Angeles who is traveling light and arrived from Troutdale.

Tomorrow’s destination is the lodge at Breaks Interstate Park. Their restaurant closes at 4 and doesn’t reopen until Tuesday so I need to get up and ride. It’s about 50 miles with some short, steep hills.

Miles today: 33.5

Tour miles: 703

The Mo Mo Tour: Day 13 – Whytheville to Damascus

Yesterday was the “I want my mommy” day of this tour. It ranks as one of the of the ten worst days I’ve ever spent on a bike.

Today was the “Who’s your daddy?” day. the last 20 miles are among the best I’ve ever ridden.

I slept in two to three hour spurts. Mindful of comments about my diet being rather inadequate to the task at hand, I had bacon and eggs with coffee for hotel breakfast.

Last night in a search to purge weight from my bags I found four BelVita packs and four apples. I decided not to grab food for the road from the hotel. Time to consume the consumables.

Before leaving I cleaned and lubed my chain and put a drop of lube on various places on my cables and derailers. Ready to roll.

I coasted downhill for a stop at WalMart then rejoined the route in downtown Whytheville. I didn’t feel very good but decided to continue anyway. On top of the brutal hills, I’ve been dealing with pollen issues for several days. Having sinuses filled with gunk makes me drowsy.

The route took me southwest on Lee Highway, US 11, the old main route through the Shenandoah Valley. Traffic was light and drivers gave me plenty of space. More importantly, the grade of the road was gentle, rarely exceeding 2 or 3 percent, despite what my map’s elevation profile said.

I seemed to be getting stronger by the mile. A light headwind didn’t seem to be slowing me. I came to Rural Retreat and stopped at an Amish-run bakery and coffee shop for second breakfast.

Note the sign at lower left that says “ Yoder’s”, an Amish name.

As luck would have it, today is National Doughnut Day. I bought a cup of coffee and was treated to a huge glazed doughnut. So much for my dietary improvements.

The best things in life are free. And big.

About a quarter mile later, I went into a grocery store and bought dinner, a big turkey and egg salad. My planned destination was a church hostel in Troutdale. There is no food there or in town so it’s BYOS.

According to the elevation profile, I had climbed about 200 feet to 2,500 feet.

I was now headed south toward Cedar Springs and Sugar Grove. Gradually I was gaining more elevation but I really didn’t notice. The wind was no longer on my face and I was locked in. I call it The Trance.

I was buzzing along on this two-lane country road, admiring the scenery and chatting with the cows and goats and horses grazing near the roadside. I look up and there are two cars coming toward me in the other lane. A third car starts to pass them in my lane!

The driver was an old lady with a permanent, white hair stacked up on her head like a helmet. She was taking her time. Coming right at me. No worries. I pulled off the road onto a mowed lawn. Old lady never blinked an eye as she drove by.

At Sugar Grove I started the six-mile climb through the Mount Rogers Recreation Area to Troutdale. The ride wound through a beautiful forest. The grade was gradual. I just kept buzzing along. A raging creek and wild pink flowering bushes running along the road. My legs never tired. I stopped at the top for a snack then flew down the two-miles to Troutdale. Big fun.

I arrived in Troutdale at 1:15. I’d ridden 38 miles, the weather couldn’t have been better, and my mind and body were ready for more. What a contrast to yesterday.

I was at about 3,500 feet before the descent to 3,000 at Troutdale. I decided to ride 23 miles to Damascus. More gradual climbing to 3,700 feet then a couple more short climbs. None of the climbs bothered me in the least. I was cookin’ with gas. And the scenery was perfecto.

I could have taken dozens more but I didn’t want to spoil my downhills

I had the option to ride the Virginia Creeper Trail for the last 13 miles into Damascus. I didn’t bother. The road was a total blast, gently winding this way and that down to Damascus at 2,000 feet.

I’m staying at The Place, the first hostel to cater to hikers on the Appalachian Trail. It has been welcoming TransAm cyclists since Bikecentennial in 1976.

This must be The Place. The Mule abides.

I am two miles from Tennessee. I’ll save that state for a Natchez Trace ride in 2025.

Tomorrow is a short ride to a church hostel in Rosedale. The midway climb over Hayter’s Gap is 1,500 steep feet. These boots are made for walkin’.

I’ve booked a room at the lodge at The Breaks Interstate Park on the Kentucky border for Sunday.

Thanks to all the readers who bolstered my spirits after yesterday.

Miles today: 59

Tour miles: 668.5

The Mo Mo Tour: Day 12 – Draper to Whytheville

I had another good Warmshowers experience with my hosts Curtis and Jennifer in Draper. They own and operate the Spinning Jenny Vineyard. At dinner they served me some of their red wine. It was really, really good so I chugged a whole bottle.

Just kidding but not about the quality of the wine.

After coffee and Cheerios I hit the road. It poured yesterday after I stopped riding so my decision to do a short day was a wise one.

Today’s ride on rolling country roads featured a strong, constant headwind with gusts well above 20 mph.

After 5 miles I stopped and ate a banana. It had no effect on my speed or attitude. At 10 miles I stopped for second breakfast at a McDonalds. It helped a little but soon the beat down continued.

Today’s plan was to ride 50 or 60 over a mountain ridge to Troutdale. I didn’t come close. I struggled mightily on even the smallest hills.

All the while the skies threatened to let loose with a downpour.

On prior tours, after about a week, I got stronger. This time I seem to be getting weaker. It was so discouraging that I stopped at a city park and checked to see if my brakes were dragging on the rims. Nope.

Interesting sign in downtown Whytheville

After lunch in Whytheville I knew I was done for the day. I ate hot dogs in an eatery in the first floor of an historic building; Woodrow Wilson’s wife was born on the second floor.

The last two days have been a constant struggle on even the shortest climbs. I am not having fun.

I checked out the possibility of renting a car and going home. The understaffed rental agency in town had nothing available so I rode across town and up yet another monster hill to a hotel.

I checked in and took a nap.

Tomorrow I’ll decide whether I’ll continue. The incessant climbing has worn my ass out.

Miles today: 29 (felt like 129)

Tour miles: 609.5

Update: The nap did me good. After dinner, I read a bunch of online journals about the part of the TransAm I’ve been riding. Nearly all say the hills are much steeper than the elevation profile on my maps indicate. I probably climbed 4,000 feet the last couple of days in short bursts.

They all agree that the big climb tomorrow isn’t nearly as bad as they thought.

I’m thinking of ditching a spare water bottle that I haven’t touched in 300 miles.

The Mo Mo Tour: Day 11 – Christiansburg to Draper

I slept poorly last night until I realized the AC wasn’t turned on. I awoke shivering at 7:30 a.m.

The first order of business was to lay waste to the hotel breakfast bar. Mission accomplished.

I left late because my hosts for the night, 30 mikes away, won’t be available until 4 p.m. I stopped at a hardware store to pick up some Velcro strips. I’ll use them to attach my air horn and mace canister to me or my bike. I am preparing for the dogs of eastern Kentucky.

As for the dogs of Virginia, they seem to be on vacation.

The topography of this area is a series of ridge lines running southwest to northeast. I’m in between two ridges following country roads that rise up 100 or 200 feet then go down 100 to 200 feet. None of these climbs were particularly challenging but I walked two anyway because it’s really not much slower and much easier that grinding away at 3 mph.

Before Radford I saw the word SLOW painted on the road. Properly warned I zoomed down and around a steep hill.

In Radford I stopped for lunch at a hot dog place. I ordered a large Diet Pepsi. It was more ludicrous than large. The food was fine.

The drink was so big, it didn’t fit into the picture

I crossed the New River and continued south with dark clouds coming over the ridge to my left. The temperature started to drop. Winds increased. I stopped and put on my rain jacket. Small leaves started falling and swirling across the two-lane road.

I looked up and saw a 100-foot tree swaying ominously. Limbs started falling onto the road. A few football-sized rocks were dislodged from the jagged rock face to my right.

Time to get off the road. I came around a bend and saw a dozen or so big branches in the road. As luck would have it, the was a house with a covered porched to my left. I took shelter as the storm raged. In ten minutes the show was over and I was in my way.

The view from the porch. Doesn’t look too bad, but it was.

I arrived at my Warmshowers hosts an hour early. They were here and ready to greet me.

I’m staying with the owners of this vineyard

I started the day at 2,000 feet and ended it at 2,200.

Dinner tonight is spaghetti and meatballs.

Tomorrow’s planned destination is a church bunkhouse in Troutdale, near the Appalachian Trail. The 60-mile ride involves quite a bit of climbing to about 3,000 feet.

Mikes today: 33.5

Tour miles: 580.5

The Mo Mo Tour: Day 10 – Troutville to Christiansburg

I didn’t sleep well last night, probably because I washed down my Subway (the closest place to the hotel) meatball sandwich with a 24 ounce beer.

I did myself proud at the breakfast bar, finishing with two apples and two bananas for the road.

I rode on a local highway to get back to the route, stopping at a Kroger on the way. I picked up some Bel Vita cookies and some flatbread (I ate my tortillas back in Lexington.)

The temperature was already in the 70s so I knew I was in for a warm day.

Back on the road I took Catawba Road west towards Gravelly Ridge. After ten miles I stopped to eat an apple and banana. The two-lane country road was busy with dump trucks. I heard a massive explosion in the distance. Soon I passed Roanoke Cement, the mining company that blows up mountains and processes the rocks (and coal, apparently).

After the mine, I encountered sawtooth terrain, one short, steep hill after another. Combined with the increasing heat, these hills were beating up my legs and my mental state. I pushed The Mule over the top of three of them, all the while thinking how will I ever do the truly big climbs head?

The road surface wasn’t helping. An especially bad part was the descent to a creek bridge full of huge potholes.

I crossed into Montgomery County and the road leveled out. Even better I hit a five-mile section of new asphalt. I stopped for a quick snack before attacking the last third of the day’s miles.

The skies behind me were darkening as a scary looking cloud formation, flat and dark, came over the ridge to my left.

I started to look for shelter as I rode. That porch looks okay. That barn will work. But I kept pedaling, now with slightly cooler temperatures and a strong tailwind. My body and mind were feeling much better.

I knew from the elevation profile in my maps that the ride climbs 500 feet in only a few miles just before the finish. I stopped in the town of Ellett to fortify myself with Gatorade and ice cream at a CSCS.

About two miles later the climb began. I’d ride until my heart and respiratory rates were maxing out. After a few minutes, I’d get back to work. The third time I did this I was weak in the legs, making restarting dangerous; I could wobble in front of a car or into the ditch next to the road.

I pushed The Mule up around a bend and there was the top at last. As it turns out, Christiansburg is at 2,000 feet of elevation.

Once into Christiansburg, I rode to nearby I-81 where my hotel is located. The front desk clerk informed me that it was 89 degrees outside.

As I’m writing this a classic summer thunderstorm erupted outside.

Tomorrow is a short mileage day to a highly recommended Warmshowers host in Draper. They won’t be ready for me until 4 p.m. so I planning on sleeping in.

Miles today: 49.5

Tour miles: 547

After the sawtooth section I saw this. I’m saved!!! Alas, it was closed

The Mo Mo Tour: Day 9 – Lexington to Troutville

My Warmshowers stay was excellent. Not only did I do laundry and take a nap, but I had a fabulous dinner and breakfast cooked by Dirk and Chrissie my hosts.

I hit the road around 8:30. The first couple of miles contained an unexpected set of rollers into Lexington. I rode through the campuses of the Virginia Military Institute and Washington and Lee University.

After that the route turned into back country roads. There were streams and forests and deer and cows and calves and goats and sheep and a bunny. There were landed estates way off the road fronted by massive lawns and a row of hillbilly shacks that seemed impossible to live in (but of course they were). Most of the homes fell in between these extremes.

Off to my right were the Short Hills, a rather imposing ridge line. The route skirted them all day. I spent probably more than half the day along a stream, a rail line, I-81, or US 11, all of which run along the southern Shenandoah Valley.

Whenever the route left these features, I found myself grinding up a short, steep hill.

At 20 miles, near Natural Bridge, I stopped for a snack at a GSCS (Gas Station Convenience Store): a pint of Arnold Palmer, a bag of Cool Ranch Doritos, and a CPB ( cherry pie in a box).

I checked to see if the hostel had responded to my request for lodging. Not getting one (until just now at 6 p.m.) I booked a room in the Comfort Inn in Troutville.

My legs were pretty tired after the climbing of the last two days. The food brought them back to life for a while.

In the town of Buchanan, 33 miles into the day, I had lunch in a bar. (The town’s other two eateries are closed on Mondayso.) The bartender/cook went about her business with a cig in her lips. I only eat at the finest establishments.

I ate a fried bologna sandwich with a side of fries, washed down with nearly a half gallon of iced tea and water.

At this point, temperatures had risen into the mid-80s. The AC in the bar did as much for me as the food.

Back on the road I headed for Troutville. I came to a barrier across the road. Eastbound Greg had warned me at the Cookie Lady’s house that there was a road closure. When he encountered it, there was no warning so he convinced the road crew that they should let him pass. I wasn’t going to take a chance when I could see on Google Maps an alternate route.

Blue Mountain Road had three steep climbs. When I hit to the third one I stopped midway up to catch my breath. Two golden retrievers behind a fence came over to urge me to move on. They were harmless so we had a chat. Woof. Sit. Woof. Go home. Woof. Later.

I was 100 feet from the top so I decided to push my bike up, probably saving my knees in the process. I turned onto Lee Highway, US 11, and headed south.

There wasn’t much of a shoulder but there was even less traffic. After a few miles I reconnected with the route only to hit a steep hill just outside of Troutville. Again I rode most of the way and walked the rest. No hurries.

The ride into Troutville was a twisty 30 mph whee!

My hotel was a mile off route on Lee Highway. I checked in just before 3 and called it a day.

My wife texted me. I’ve been called for jury duty in mid-July. I figure I can finish this tour as planned by June 30, but jury duty would kill extending the tour. That may not be a bad thing. In any case I can reschedule.

For those of you wondering what the climbs I’ve been doing look like take a look at this elevation profile. The horizontal lines are increments of 1,000 feet.

The last two days were that big bump in the middle

Miles today: 50

Tour miles: 497.5

I think that’s Short Hills in the distance.

The Mo Mo Tour: Day 8 – Afton to Lexington

We had a fun group at the Cookie Lady’s house last night. Phil, Masha, and 4-year-old Brooke arrived in the late afternoon. Daddy Phil is pulling Brooke in her trailer. Momma Masha is carrying a huge load of gear too. They were quite fun people. Australian Phil has great taste in music; he’s a Neil Finn fan.

I slept poorly but the price was right. Greg left for the east at sun up. I headed west at 7:15.

The first two miles were straight up Afton Mountain Mountain to Rockfish Gap where Skyline Drive meets the Blue Ridge Parkway.

I stopped to take a picture of The Mule at the sign pointing south for the BRP and north for Slyline.

After a mile of climbing I was tired and went to post the picture. I deleted it instead. Derp.

There were plenty of sights to photograph though. This section of the BRP had two big climbs: one to 3,000 feet another to 3,200 feet. I felt like I was out west climbing in the Rockies without the thin air. In between the two high points I descended to 2,600 feet.

Anyway I rode 27 miles on the BRP before descending on a steep and windy mountain road to Vesuvius. The road looked incredibly like the road over Deepwater Mountain between my in-laws childhood homes in West Virginia.

It was raining during the climb to 3,200 feet and the descent to Vesuvius so I put on my jacket. The cool air and raindrops were welcome relief from the hard work going up and the hot braking surfaces going down.

I did stop twice on the descent to let my rims cool down. The first time I’m sure I was close to a heat-induced blowout. These v-brakes are infinitely better than the cantilever brakes I used to have on The Mule.

The road from Vesuvius to Lexington was mostly flat but for a hill near the start and a couple of tough climbs near the end.

I’m at a Warmshowers house just east of Lexington. Dirk and Crissy have a chill golden retriever named Roxy.

Tomorrow I’m shooting for a hostel in the Appalachian Trail in Troutville.

Miles today: 49

Tour miles: 447

The Mo Mo Tour: Day 7 – Charlottesville to Afton

Another perfect day on the road. Temps in the 60s, low humidity, sunny skies.

After laying waste to the hotel breakfast, I headed into downtown Charlottesville and re-joined the TransAm.

The route went west toward the Blue Ridge on picture postcard country roads. There were plenty of climbs as the route toyed with the eastern side of the ridge.

I was warned that there is no food at today’s destination in Afton, so I stocked up at a country store in White Hall. At noon I diverted to Crozet where i had a burger and fries. The large fries could have fed four people. I surrendered half way through the pile.

More hills and a rather dramatic uphill switchback came next. After I crossed I-64 the ride up the ridge began. It was tough. I had to stop twice to get my heart rate under control. The second time I was on a steep section so I pushed my bike 100 yards to a flat spot. A half mile later I was at the Cookie Lady’s house in Afton.

June Curry saw some bike tourists slogging Afton Mountain Road past her house on a hot summer day in 1976 and offered them water. Day after day the Bikecentennial riders came by. Eventually she caught on and started giving out cookies. She died about 12 years ago but her house is now a bike hostel of sorts. Actually it’s more like a shrine to the TransAm.

I’m here with Greg Parker, an eastbound TransAm rider. He hooked me up with a Warmshowers host for tomorrow and warned me of the vicious dogs in Eastern Kentucky.

A family of three is just arriving to fill out the rest of the rooms tonight.

The house is directly across the road from the Blue Ridge Tunnel, so I went for a three-mile hike to check it out. It’s not particularly bike friendly but it’s so cool inside that it feels like a shower on a hot day.

Tomorrow I climb up to the Blue Ridge Parkway. It’s sure to be challenging but I get a legendary descent on the far side.

Miles today: 31.5

Tour miles: 398.5

It may be hilly but it sure is beautiful

The Mo Mo Mo Tour: Day 6 – Nearly Back on the TransAm

Last night’s dinner from 7-11 was a fine repast. A jumbo hot dog, a big bag of tater chips, a small bag of M&Ms, and a tall Arnold Palmer (sans alcohol).

I slept well using ear plugs to drown out the TVs in the hotel. Something big must have happened in the news.

The breakfast bar was no match for my hunger. Coffee, OJ, biscuits and sausage gravy, scrambled eggs, home fries, and a turkey sausage patty. Burp.

I took an apple for the road then packed slowly allowing the temperature to rise above 60 degrees.

I learned today that the Google doesn’t do country roads very well. It started me the wrong way on a two-lane, one-way road. Next it routed me onto US 29, a four-lane bicycle death trap. Later it routed me onto a gravel road. This worked out fine. A half hour later it did it again. This time the road crossed a cattle guard and ended at a farmer’s gate.

The paved alternative looked good until I arrived at an active stone quarry. A man at the quarry ungoogled me and I was soon on flat Rapidan Road, zooming south with the aid of a tailwind.

After climbing a steep hill in Orange, I stopped at a brewpub for lunch. The food was great even if the condiments were a bit pretentious.

After Orange I turned onto Virginia Highway 20 and headed 22 miles straight to my hotel. The road was rolling up and down mile after mile with each hill getting higher than the last. The traffic picked up and the drivers were impatient. The first tall building I came to was my hotel, high on a hill, of course. It’s next to a Wawa so I know where I’m eating tonight.

Hotels here are nearly double the price from last week. I blame Brandon. Still I sprung for another Holiday Inn Express because the psychological impact of staying in fleabag hotels is one of my least favorite aspects of bicycle touring.

I have booked a sofa at the Cookie Lady’s house tomorrow night. I hope also to ride the new tunnel under the Blue Ridge. I not looking forward to the brutal climbing during the day but I’m as ready as I can be.

A country road through working farmland. Many of the farms near Charlottesville are mega estates.

This gravel road went through to a paved road, others did not

It’s kind of hard to make salt obnoxious but this bar in Orange managed the feat.

Near James Madison’s home houses are painted this interesting green color. Madison bought gas here. Or maybe not.

If you run a business out in the boonies, it’s best to specialize.

Miles today: 54

Tour miles: 367

	Giles on Errandonnee Encore
	niall on Reading and Watching in 2025…
	Ellen Zook Osborn on Top Ten of 2025
	Brittany on On Average. The Weather Is…
	On Average. The Weat… on Blood Clots Are What They…